Category Archives: Israel

Volunteering in Israel January 2007

Ancient History, History, Israel

Rhona is a remarkable woman in her early 60s, who has survived South Africa and cancer. She spends her vacations in very unorthodox ways. This year she took it easy and went down to the Dead Sea on an archeological dig. This account will transport you to the ancient sites Rhona describes so well.

Volunteering in Israel January 2007
By Rhona Karbusicky

I had primarily volunteered in Israel via Sar-El at Tel Hashomer Army Base in 2002. My task was to sort nerve gas injections for children and adults while discarding outdated items. In 2004 I volunteered at the rehabilitative Lichtenstaedter Hospital just outside Tel-Aviv. Both were fulfilling experiences. Now in 2007 I searched the Internet for alternative volunteer programs.

The Ein Gedi Oasis Excavations headed by Dr. Gideon Hadas provided the perfect opportunity for January 2007. The period coincided with my leave in Canada and I signed up.

Ein Gedi is exquisite in January —temperatures average 17-20 degrees Celsius and are ideal for physical exertion. The Judean desert constantly changes hue and color in the sunlight while shadows provide yet another perspective of the enchanting hills. Behind us is the cave where the mountain leopard resides and his roar can be heard in the early morning hours. The ibex with their curved horns and the hyrax roam comfortably and unthreatened as we walk to the excavation site. These animals in their immaculate desert camouflage — different shades of brown — blend effortlessly into the backdrop of the Judean hills.

Behind the date palms stretches the phenomenon of the Dead Sea — 420 meters below sea level, the lowest point on earth. The Dead Sea shimmers and glitters as the sun rises, while the Jordanian Hills reflect the changing and mobile colors of the landscape.

The site under excavation dates back to the Second Temple (Roman period) — 7th Century BCE to 6th Century CE. Many visions spring to mind. How did the Jews look 2100 years ago? Were they small and dark? How did they live? Did they kindle Shabbat candles? Did they dance and sing? Layer by layer the small village revealed its treasures as we slowly and carefully dug deeper revealing entrances, courtyards, steps leading to exits and stone walls delineating each room. Sinks were uncovered as were shards of pottery and larger more intact vessels. A metal detector aided in the discovery of the ancient currency. Hopefully a Mikveh would also come to light.

Excavations took place Monday to Thursday — participants included many nationalities — Canadians, Swedes, Germans, Swiss, French, Italian, British, and American. Four Bedouins — Jaber, Zachi, Mutzla and Ahouda helped with the pick work carrying and disposing of heavy pails of dirt. Approximately a dozen American and British teenagers from the youth camp in Arad completed the team of volunteers. Gideon, known for his acerbic humor, kept an ever vigilant eye on his group. Most of the regular volunteers have been coming to Ein Gedi for 11 years since the inception of the Oasis Excavations. This “family” of volunteers ecstatically greets each other every year, happily working side by side enjoying the camaraderie and the desert environment. Meals are enjoyed under the date palms while Jaber and his co-workers retire to their tent, eat there, drink sweet herb tea brewed in a kettle and smoke the Nargilah. The Bedouin tent was undoubtedly the main attraction for the girls from the Arad youth camp — they were only too eager to experiment with the Nargilah.

The first free weekend Stephen (Toronto) and I decided to visit the Nabataean city of Petra in Jordan. The border crossing was via Eilat — Meir from the “Jeep See” travel bureau drove us to the Jordanian border where Abdel Rahim, our Jordanian guide, was waiting.

Then began the most wondrous of days. The drive to Petra via Aquaba was roughly 2 hours hampered by heavy fog. Snow lay on the surrounding hills and in the town of Wadi Musa. It is likely that Petra became the Nabataean capital at the height of its fortune — under the reign of Harith III (87-62 BC). The ancient Nabataean city rose in its Olympian splendor. The pink Nubian stone towered above us dwarfing the speeding horse-drawn carriages, the camels, the donkeys, the tourists. In many parts, the overhanging rock reminded me of Joseph’s many colored coat — red, blue, yellow, brown — I doubt whether an artist’s palette could replicate the unbelievable majesty of Petra. The brilliant and skilful engineering of the “Treasury” — Petra’s masterpiece- left us speechless. On this cold day, lunch with Abdel was most welcome – we enjoyed the kebabs, salads, rice pudding, coconut cake and blancmange while admiring the hanging portrait of King Abdullah, the handsome blue eyed Jordanian king. A horse ride back to the car rounded off a perfect day. Stephen and I had entered an unimaginable historical era — the day in Petra will forever be etched as one of my exceptional and unforgettable life experiences.

Taking leave of Gideon and my fellow volunteers, I explored the area around Ein Gedi. A day at the spa proved invigorating as I relaxed in the sulfur pools, covered myself in green mud and floated in the Dead Sea. Hopefully proposals to save the receding waters will come to fruition, and this wonder of the world will be preserved.

Shabbat evening, I visited my fellow volunteers living at Kibbutz Ein Gedi. There I met Barbara Gruel Aschanta, an artist from Frankfurt Germany. Barbara was on her way to meet with a representative from the Goethe Institute at Ramallah. Her dream is to establish a gallery in Frankfurt where Israeli and Palestinian women artists could display their art. By the end of the evening, we had become fast friends.

The following day, accompanied by a Bedouin guide, Salakh, we drove past the Dead Sea factories engaged in research and desalination programs, past the affluent hotels in Ein Boqeq and on to Mount Sodom where the desert lay silently beneath us. As we wandered among the undulating hills, an Israeli family rounded the bend mounted on their sleek horses — they were out for a ride this Shabbat morning. The Flour Cave, dark and solitary awaited us and the thick flour-like substance was yet another phenomenon of the desert. On our return to Ein Gedi, Salakh pointed out the pillar that was supposedly Lot’s wife.

Sunday was scheduled for a tour of the Bedouin area — down to Arad, the Bedouin market and lastly to the “Peace Tent” in Rahat, a vast tent with bright red cushions and carpeting. Ibrahim spoke only Hebrew explaining how the Peace Tent originated — a car of an Israeli family on their way to Eilat for Passover broke down — one of the kids cried so heartbrokenly that Ibrahim offered his own vehicle to the Israeli family so they could proceed to Eilat. A friendship flourished and the idea for the Peace Tent was born. Tourists from all over the world visit this tent for a meal and music while Ibrahim regales them with stories and extends the legendary Bedouin hospitality. Ibrahim further explained that the Bedouins were in a period of transition where the elders preferred to live in tents while the younger members of the various tribes opted for conventional housing. As we returned to Jerusalem, I did indeed notice tents alongside brick dwellings.
Jerusalem lacked the usual tourist hordes — shopkeepers struggle for a living. Passing through the Jaffa gate, I made my way through the teeming Arab Market to the Kotel where I spent several hours contemplating the survival of my people. My final visit was to Ben Yehuda Street and a stroll in the crisp evening air.

Israel remains a fascinating place to volunteer and visit. Lifetime friendships are formed, and through this fulfilling experience one returns able to enhance and enrich the lives of those around us.

Updated 'Reza Aslan's Pogrom Amnesia'

Israel, Israeli-Palestinian Conflict, Media, Middle East

About Reza Aslan, the darling of the media on all things Muslim, Myles Kantor observes the following:

“Last night I watched Sam Harris and Reza Aslan’s January 25 debate on religion at the Los Angeles Public Library. Toward the end, Harris noted the anti-Semitic character of the Middle East before the establishment of Israel in 1948.

Aslan responded in reference to pre-state Israel, ‘Before 1948, of course, there were tens of thousands of Jews living alongside their Arab neighbors without any problem at all.’

Without any problem at all? How about the Jerusalem pogrom in 1920 and the Jaffa pogrom in 1921? Or Arab massacres of Jews in Hebron and Safad in 1929? Or the Tiberias pogrom in 1938? (There was a reason the Sephardic Jewish sage Maimonides wrote in 1172 regarding Arabs, ‘Never did a nation molest, degrade, debase, and hate us as much as they.’)

If Aslan is ignorant of this recurrent savagery, then the Harvard graduate’s study of pre-state Israel has been amazingly selective. If not, his misrepresentation of Arab-Jewish life before 1948 is revisionism in the same gutter as Holocaust denial.”

Or down at curb level with the New Historians’ output.

Update: the post was mentioned favorably at Jihad Watch.

Updated ‘Reza Aslan’s Pogrom Amnesia’

Israel, Israeli-Palestinian Conflict, Media, Middle East

About Reza Aslan, the darling of the media on all things Muslim, Myles Kantor observes the following:

“Last night I watched Sam Harris and Reza Aslan’s January 25 debate on religion at the Los Angeles Public Library. Toward the end, Harris noted the anti-Semitic character of the Middle East before the establishment of Israel in 1948.

Aslan responded in reference to pre-state Israel, ‘Before 1948, of course, there were tens of thousands of Jews living alongside their Arab neighbors without any problem at all.’

Without any problem at all? How about the Jerusalem pogrom in 1920 and the Jaffa pogrom in 1921? Or Arab massacres of Jews in Hebron and Safad in 1929? Or the Tiberias pogrom in 1938? (There was a reason the Sephardic Jewish sage Maimonides wrote in 1172 regarding Arabs, ‘Never did a nation molest, degrade, debase, and hate us as much as they.’)

If Aslan is ignorant of this recurrent savagery, then the Harvard graduate’s study of pre-state Israel has been amazingly selective. If not, his misrepresentation of Arab-Jewish life before 1948 is revisionism in the same gutter as Holocaust denial.”

Or down at curb level with the New Historians’ output.

Update: the post was mentioned favorably at Jihad Watch.

Letter From Jerusalem By Paul Gottfried

Israel, Judaism & Jews

Paul Gottfried, who was kind enough to offer Advance Praise for my book, is one of Barely a Blog’s A-List guest writers. Paul is Professor of Humanities at Elizabethtown College, and author of The Conservative Movement, Carl Schmitt: Politics and Theory, After Liberalism: Mass Democracy in the Managerial State, Multiculturalism and the Politics of Guilt: Toward a Secular Theocracy. Professor Gottfried’s new book is The Strange Death of Marxism: The European Left in the New Millennium. The following vignettes from Israel are accompanied by Paul’s signature penetrating insights —the kind absent in the flat, ideological rants dished out by the anti-Semitic far left, the hard right, and their far-out libertarian allies.—ILANA

LETTER FROM JERUSALEM

BY PAUL GOTTFRIED

Having spent most of last January touring Israel or recovering in the U.S. from the subsequent jet lag, it may be appropriate to list here some of my impressions. The Jewish population was markedly different from anything I had expected. If there are Israeli counterparts to Abe Foxman and Midge Decter, I’m delighted I didn’t encounter them. The vast majority of Jews I did meet were Moroccan and Levantine, whereas most of the security police in the entrances to shopping malls and on the road between East Jerusalem and the Dead Sea are dark-skinned Jewish Ethiopians. These Falashim (which is their disparaging Ethiopian name) are usually polite to a fault but known to be tough on suspected terrorists. They are now moving into a vocational-ethnic niche that resembles that of the Irish police in the U.S.

Most of the Israeli Jewish population seems oblivious to Christian anti-Semitism and comes from societies that did not suffer in the Holocaust. They do not echo the fear found in ADL publications; nor do they celebrate or lament Jewish marginality in the manner of New York literati. But they are inordinately fond of the American Religious Right, whose silliness they ignore because Robertson and Falwell are working night and day on behalf of Israel. They are also importing from Poland and the Philippines a predominantly Catholic work force, to take the place of the West Bank Palestinians. A cheap labor source, the West Bankers now reside behind a long, impenetrable wall (hachomah), which the Israeli government put up about ten miles west of the Mediterranean. Inhabitants of the town of Netanya, north of Tel Aviv, where my brother and I stayed, expressed relief that the wall had gone up. Only last year, suicide bombers had hiked from the West Bank, a distance of nine miles, to a by now reconstructed shopping mall, where they had blown up the shops and the customers. Note the Israelis make this point while emphasizing the obvious: It seems wise to keep those who threaten you at a safe distance and so high walls make for peaceful neighbors.

My niece who was spending the year in Israel, at a horse-breeding farm near Tel Aviv, was struck by the international work force at her communal settlement. Although originally a quasi-Marxist enterprise, this Moshav now includes seasonal European workers who look after the Arabian steeds and tend to the citrus groves. One of my niece’s friends, a Polish guest worker, who conversed with us in a curious combination of Hebrew, Polish, and English, was intent on staying. But afterwards she informed us that Israeli security forces had sent him home because “his papers were not in order.” When my brother asked if anyone had objected, my niece explained that her bosses accepted this “as part of life.” After all, “security means that you can’t have people stay if their visa has expired.”

Two aspects of Israeli life struck me with particular force. One is the narrowness of the country’s width, which in its populous central region extends about ten miles, between the Mediterranean and the wall; two is the approximately one million Israeli Palestinians who coexist with Jews, Filipinos and European guest workers. Traveling north from Tel Aviv toward the Galilee we drove from one Arab Muslim village to the next; and none of the towns, with the possible exception of Nazareth, is known for religious or ethnic diversity. For the non-Muslim population, this concentration poses a security problem, given the fact that the Arab Muslims in Jerusalem support Hamas overwhelmingly. Although little love exists between the Jews and Israeli Palestinians, or so my interlocutors kept reminding me in Hebrew, French and English, the two sides have established a modus vivendi. One can see them eating, albeit at separate tables, in the same McDonalds (kosher) restaurants. Extended Arab families frequent Moroccan Jewish eateries, where the food and language are essentially Arab. In Jerusalem, despite the generally tense relations between Orthodox Jews, many imported from the U.S., and East Jerusalem Arabs, the same kind of commercial coexistence prevails. The hotels, which cater heavily to Jewish tourists from the U.S. and the former British Empire, reveal Palestinian, Filipino, and Jewish employees working side by side.

Military security in Israel, necessitated by West Bank Palestinians and concern about their Israeli cousins, drives other arrangements. It accounts for the omnipresent check- points and the helicopters flying overhead at the beach in Tel Aviv and at the excavation sites at Caesarea and Capernaum. The same pressure explains the apparently relaxed manner in which Israelis stretch their institutions, particularly the military, to include those unlike themselves. While they do not draft Palestinians, their army does include the Druze, who are deviationist Shiites, Bedouins, and Maronite Christians. Non-Orthodox Israelis will contrast the swarthy “patriotic” Yemenites and Ethiopians, who serve in border units, to the Orthodox, who have lots of children and often live on welfare but are exempt from military duty.
¼br /> Since the Orthodox, who are often resettled from Western countries, are usually the most outspoken annexationists, a complaint made about them is that they exacerbate strife without bearing responsibility for their actions. But this complaint does not apply to the “modern Orthodox,” who wear Rabbinically-prescribed head coverings (kipoth) but also serve disproportionately in military operations. I never learned, by the way, whether the military responsibility that applies to young women and young men equally, affects the “modern Orthodox” as well.

Living in a siege situation explains other things that I noticed in Israel. Unlike FOX and CNN, the average Israeli did not agonize over Ariel Sharon’s failing health. Although admired for his military prowess and coalition building, Sharon was not thought to be indispensable for the peace process. If the Palestinians will recognize us and cease their violence, is the refrain, whoever will then be on hand will sign the resulting peace. Another consequence in Israel of being surrounded by enemies is a relatively laid-back approach to immigration. In Netanya “Russian Jews” have arrived in droves claiming that they are exercising the Jewish “law of return.” These immigrants from the former Soviet Union look mostly like ethnic Russians, who might have discovered or invented a Jewish grandmother. Their inventiveness reminded me of some Americans, who in quest of casino money on Indian reservation land, create for themselves Pequot relatives. Unlike the orthodox Rabbinate, who willingly do genealogical checkups to determine someone’s Jewish identity, most Israelis, who need more arms-bearing settlers, seem to care little about bloodlines. But unfortunately for the Israelis, the Russian immigrants have brought with them unwelcome habits, particularly heavy drinking and malingering. Unlike other immigrant groups, the Russians may be hard for the Israelis to absorb.

From the foregoing remarks, written last January, it is apparent that I regard the siege situation in which the Israelis find themselves as the most critical side of their national existence. Not only are the effects of this problem unrelenting. It is also one that does not lend itself to any ready solution that will leave Israel in a relatively secure position. The victory of Hamas in the Palestinian territories does not bode well for Israel. The victorious party is still committed to the destruction of its neighbor, but, perhaps even worse, is not able to establish its own functioning state. So far this invertebrate condition has been ascribed to temporary difficulties, e.g., the cutting off of international funding, until Hamas renounces terrorism, and the opposition to Hamas posed by the formerly ruling party of Palestinian President Abbas. Meanwhile there is no political entity on the other side that is ready or able to subdue violence in its territory, and which can therefore enforce treaties. Such are the preconditions for a lasting peace even if a Palestinian government were willing to recognize Israel outright. This means for the Israelis that the present siege situation, marked by narrow borders and multiple check-points, will continue to be part of their daily life. Those inhabitants who can relocate to better conditions in Europe, Canada or the U.S. will frequently do so, and even the Russians of dubious Jewish parentage will depart if they can find better material opportunities elsewhere. These may be the long-range, inescapable effects of Israel’s beleaguered existence.