Rhona is a remarkable woman in her early 60s, who has survived South Africa and cancer. She spends her vacations in very unorthodox ways. This year she took it easy and went down to the Dead Sea on an archeological dig. This account will transport you to the ancient sites Rhona describes so well.
Volunteering in Israel January 2007
By Rhona Karbusicky
I had primarily volunteered in Israel via Sar-El at Tel Hashomer Army Base in 2002. My task was to sort nerve gas injections for children and adults while discarding outdated items. In 2004 I volunteered at the rehabilitative Lichtenstaedter Hospital just outside Tel-Aviv. Both were fulfilling experiences. Now in 2007 I searched the Internet for alternative volunteer programs.
The Ein Gedi Oasis Excavations headed by Dr. Gideon Hadas provided the perfect opportunity for January 2007. The period coincided with my leave in Canada and I signed up.
Ein Gedi is exquisite in January —temperatures average 17-20 degrees Celsius and are ideal for physical exertion. The Judean desert constantly changes hue and color in the sunlight while shadows provide yet another perspective of the enchanting hills. Behind us is the cave where the mountain leopard resides and his roar can be heard in the early morning hours. The ibex with their curved horns and the hyrax roam comfortably and unthreatened as we walk to the excavation site. These animals in their immaculate desert camouflage — different shades of brown — blend effortlessly into the backdrop of the Judean hills.
Behind the date palms stretches the phenomenon of the Dead Sea — 420 meters below sea level, the lowest point on earth. The Dead Sea shimmers and glitters as the sun rises, while the Jordanian Hills reflect the changing and mobile colors of the landscape.
The site under excavation dates back to the Second Temple (Roman period) — 7th Century BCE to 6th Century CE. Many visions spring to mind. How did the Jews look 2100 years ago? Were they small and dark? How did they live? Did they kindle Shabbat candles? Did they dance and sing? Layer by layer the small village revealed its treasures as we slowly and carefully dug deeper revealing entrances, courtyards, steps leading to exits and stone walls delineating each room. Sinks were uncovered as were shards of pottery and larger more intact vessels. A metal detector aided in the discovery of the ancient currency. Hopefully a Mikveh would also come to light.
Excavations took place Monday to Thursday — participants included many nationalities — Canadians, Swedes, Germans, Swiss, French, Italian, British, and American. Four Bedouins — Jaber, Zachi, Mutzla and Ahouda helped with the pick work carrying and disposing of heavy pails of dirt. Approximately a dozen American and British teenagers from the youth camp in Arad completed the team of volunteers. Gideon, known for his acerbic humor, kept an ever vigilant eye on his group. Most of the regular volunteers have been coming to Ein Gedi for 11 years since the inception of the Oasis Excavations. This “family” of volunteers ecstatically greets each other every year, happily working side by side enjoying the camaraderie and the desert environment. Meals are enjoyed under the date palms while Jaber and his co-workers retire to their tent, eat there, drink sweet herb tea brewed in a kettle and smoke the Nargilah. The Bedouin tent was undoubtedly the main attraction for the girls from the Arad youth camp — they were only too eager to experiment with the Nargilah.
The first free weekend Stephen (Toronto) and I decided to visit the Nabataean city of Petra in Jordan. The border crossing was via Eilat — Meir from the “Jeep See” travel bureau drove us to the Jordanian border where Abdel Rahim, our Jordanian guide, was waiting.
Then began the most wondrous of days. The drive to Petra via Aquaba was roughly 2 hours hampered by heavy fog. Snow lay on the surrounding hills and in the town of Wadi Musa. It is likely that Petra became the Nabataean capital at the height of its fortune — under the reign of Harith III (87-62 BC). The ancient Nabataean city rose in its Olympian splendor. The pink Nubian stone towered above us dwarfing the speeding horse-drawn carriages, the camels, the donkeys, the tourists. In many parts, the overhanging rock reminded me of Joseph’s many colored coat — red, blue, yellow, brown — I doubt whether an artist’s palette could replicate the unbelievable majesty of Petra. The brilliant and skilful engineering of the “Treasury” — Petra’s masterpiece- left us speechless. On this cold day, lunch with Abdel was most welcome – we enjoyed the kebabs, salads, rice pudding, coconut cake and blancmange while admiring the hanging portrait of King Abdullah, the handsome blue eyed Jordanian king. A horse ride back to the car rounded off a perfect day. Stephen and I had entered an unimaginable historical era — the day in Petra will forever be etched as one of my exceptional and unforgettable life experiences.
Taking leave of Gideon and my fellow volunteers, I explored the area around Ein Gedi. A day at the spa proved invigorating as I relaxed in the sulfur pools, covered myself in green mud and floated in the Dead Sea. Hopefully proposals to save the receding waters will come to fruition, and this wonder of the world will be preserved.
Shabbat evening, I visited my fellow volunteers living at Kibbutz Ein Gedi. There I met Barbara Gruel Aschanta, an artist from Frankfurt Germany. Barbara was on her way to meet with a representative from the Goethe Institute at Ramallah. Her dream is to establish a gallery in Frankfurt where Israeli and Palestinian women artists could display their art. By the end of the evening, we had become fast friends.
The following day, accompanied by a Bedouin guide, Salakh, we drove past the Dead Sea factories engaged in research and desalination programs, past the affluent hotels in Ein Boqeq and on to Mount Sodom where the desert lay silently beneath us. As we wandered among the undulating hills, an Israeli family rounded the bend mounted on their sleek horses — they were out for a ride this Shabbat morning. The Flour Cave, dark and solitary awaited us and the thick flour-like substance was yet another phenomenon of the desert. On our return to Ein Gedi, Salakh pointed out the pillar that was supposedly Lot’s wife.
Sunday was scheduled for a tour of the Bedouin area — down to Arad, the Bedouin market and lastly to the “Peace Tent” in Rahat, a vast tent with bright red cushions and carpeting. Ibrahim spoke only Hebrew explaining how the Peace Tent originated — a car of an Israeli family on their way to Eilat for Passover broke down — one of the kids cried so heartbrokenly that Ibrahim offered his own vehicle to the Israeli family so they could proceed to Eilat. A friendship flourished and the idea for the Peace Tent was born. Tourists from all over the world visit this tent for a meal and music while Ibrahim regales them with stories and extends the legendary Bedouin hospitality. Ibrahim further explained that the Bedouins were in a period of transition where the elders preferred to live in tents while the younger members of the various tribes opted for conventional housing. As we returned to Jerusalem, I did indeed notice tents alongside brick dwellings.
Jerusalem lacked the usual tourist hordes — shopkeepers struggle for a living. Passing through the Jaffa gate, I made my way through the teeming Arab Market to the Kotel where I spent several hours contemplating the survival of my people. My final visit was to Ben Yehuda Street and a stroll in the crisp evening air.
Israel remains a fascinating place to volunteer and visit. Lifetime friendships are formed, and through this fulfilling experience one returns able to enhance and enrich the lives of those around us.
